Attention: The most critical points about «life» A freshly overhauled engine is messing around for the first few seconds of running. Preparation makes the difference between a smooth step to the next «life» and more abrupt transition. The prerequisites for starting the engine are as follows: the engine must be filled with engine oil and coolant (coolant) and the valve timing must be set.
Preparation
After installing the engine, add engine oil to the correct level. If you installed a new or different oil sump, follow the instructions for filling that sump.
If the camshaft has been replaced, it is recommended that the engine be run at high idle for a few minutes. Accumulator battery (AB) should be fully charged, and the ignition timing of the injection should be tried to be set more precisely.
When the engine is started and running for the first 20 minutes «running-in», then about 0.5 mj of deadly carbon monoxide will come out of it. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure good ventilation of the room where the car is located, i.e. open all windows and doors. Carbon monoxide is heavier than air and can accumulate in an enclosed space for hours. The first minutes of engine operation are especially dangerous if you work in a closed garage.
Launch
At the moment, the repaired engine is ready to start. Connect a stroboscope, tachometer and oil pressure gauge to the engine.
Bleed the fuel system. To do this, on engines with electronic fuel injection, turn the ignition on and off several times.
Caution: Pouring fuel into the intake manifold to start the engine is very dangerous.
Engage the starter and listen for engine signs of life.
The engine should start. If the engine does not start or runs very poorly after starting, refer to the appropriate chapter.
It can be confusing for both the amateur and the professional to connect all the pipes, wires and hoses disconnected when the engine was removed. Numbering, marking, and even photographing the engine compartment before removing the engine will then help you navigate this mess more easily.
Hydraulic pushers - check
After starting the engine, you can hear a characteristic clicking sound, which can be mistaken for the sound of the hydraulic pusher. In this case, perform the following operations.
Check the engine oil level, add oil if necessary.
- If the amount of oil is insufficient, the oil pick-up may entrain air.
- If there is a lot of oil, the crankshaft agitates the oil in the crankcase, resulting in an oil-air mixture.
- Air bubbles cannot easily come out of the old oil, so the amount of air in the oil increases. Such a mixture, when it enters the high pressure chamber (1) and the hydraulic pusher is compressed (when pressure is applied to the hydraulic pusher).
The consequence of this is the appearance of sound when the valve is closed. The work of the pushers is restored when the air is separated from the oil.
Start the engine and accelerate it slowly several times. If the sound disappears, this means that the oil has been freed from air and the normal operation of the hydraulic pushers has been restored.
Gradually increase the engine speed from idle to 3000 rpm, and then gradually decrease the engine speed to idle.
Caution: If the vehicle has been parked on a sloping surface for a long time or has not been used, oil may leak from the hydraulic tappet, and instead of it, air will enter the high pressure chamber.
If the clicking sound does not disappear after the described operations, check the condition of the hydraulic thumpers.
Stop the engine.
Set the number one piston to TDC on the compression stroke.
Press the valve rocker in the area marked with white arrows.
Check the position of the valve rocker.
Rotate the crankshaft 360°clockwise.
Press the rocker arm in the area marked with black arrows to check the position of the rocker arm.
If, when pressed, the rocker arm drops easily when the lobe of the cam is in the closed valve position (see fig.), then in this case it is considered that the hydraulic pusher is faulty and needs to be replaced.
When replacing hydraulic pushers, remove air from them.
When the engine starts, increase its speed immediately to 1500-2000 rpm. Stabilize engine speed. The camshaft and valve lifters run in better to each other if the engine is not allowed to idle for the first 20 minutes «new life». In the engine, the camshaft receives much less oil at idle. The revs should be slightly higher so that the camshaft and pushrods are well lubricated. Also, do not change the engine speed abruptly during the first 20 minutes of its operation. If the engine speed is not kept more or less constant, there will be unwanted stresses on new parts, on tighter tolerances, and on parts that have not yet been run in. During the 20-minute period «running-in» oil pressure and engine temperature must be constantly monitored. If there are any abnormal values, then smoothly transfer the engine to idle, stop the engine and eliminate the cause of this phenomenon.
During the initial break-in period, adjust the ignition. Although it will be necessary to adjust the ignition again at the correct engine speed after the engine is idling, still set the ignition timing to an approximate value now to reduce the possibility of engine overheating. Check carefully for oil, coolant, power steering fluid and fluid leaks (oils) for the checkpoint.
After 20 minutes «running-in» slowly return the engine to idle and let it idle long enough to check the ignition timing and set the idle speed.
Control trip
Now everything is ready for the test drive. Start with a short drive near the repair site. Since the car has not been driven for a long time, listen carefully for unusual noises and constantly monitor the coolant temperature and oil pressure. For safety reasons, take a companion with you. If the gauges are out of range, shut off the engine immediately and determine the source of the problem.
Caution: Do not test drive until all removed parts have been installed and all systems are operating properly.
After the test drive, the vital parameters of the engine must be assessed.
Disconnect the stroboscope and tachometer. If possible, position the oil pressure gauge so that it is visible when driving. If the gauge hose is too short, then remove the gauge, check that the oil pressure warning light works, and keep an eye on it during the trip.
Now you can make a control trip of a longer duration. During this trip, the likelihood of a malfunction in the ignition circuit is directly proportional to the distance from your garage. Keep this in mind.
After returning to the garage, check the wiring harnesses, including the high voltage wires. Check the oil level, check for oil leaks and repair if necessary. The same applies to the cooling system.
When the test drive is over and the hose clamps, drain plugs and oil sump bolts are tightened, the car can be driven for several days (or weeks) until the next maintenance. The driver should be mindful of recent repairs and while driving, carefully monitor instruments and warning lights, and listen for unusual sounds.
Service in the range from 1000 to 1500 km of run
Between 1000 and 1500 km, the vehicle must be serviced. Let the engine cool down completely, preferably overnight. Loosen and re-tighten the cylinder head bolts. Change engine oil and oil filter. Check the tension of all belts and tight fit of the hoses. Check the oil level in the gearbox.
If all operations are carried out, and there are no traces of engine oil and coolant leakage under the car, then the engine repair can be considered successfully completed.