Models before 2000
Elements of the clutch slave cylinder
1 - fitting;
2 - valve;
3 - spring;
4 - body;
5 - screw for pumping;
6 - spring;
7 - piston assembly;
8 - anther;
9 - thrust.
Withdrawal
Disconnect the hydraulic tube.
Turn away a bolt of fastening of the working cylinder.
Check for fluid leaks from the slave cylinder.
Check for damage to the anthers of the working cylinder.
Disassembly and inspection
Remove the valve plate, spring, linkage and boot.
Clean the working cylinder bore.
Remove the piston from the working cylinder with compressed air, covering the cylinder with a rag to prevent the piston from flying out of the cylinder.
Check for rust and nicks on the inner surface of the cylinder.
Measure in three sections (bottom, middle and top) internal diameter of the cylinder and replace the working cylinder assembly if the clearance between the cylinder walls and the piston exceeds the limit (0.15 mm).
Assembly
Apply brake fluid to the inside of the cylinder and to the outside of the piston assembly, and insert the piston assembly into the cylinder.
Install the valve plate, spring, linkage and boot.
Installation
After coating the pin with grease, align the hole on the end of the slave cylinder rod with the hole in the clutch fork shaft and install the pin in the hole.
Install the working cylinder and connect the hydraulic drive tube to it.
Models since 2000
Elements of the clutch slave cylinder (models since 2000)
1 - pusher;
2 - anther;
3 - piston;
4 - spring;
5 - body;
6 - spring;
7 - restrictive valve;
8 - bolt;
9 - bleed valve;
10 - hose.
Withdrawal
Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle.
Pump out all the fluid from the reservoir, then open the slave cylinder bleeder valve and gently depress the clutch pedal several times to remove the fluid. Tighten the fitting when all liquid has been removed.
Clean the area around the hydraulic tube union nut on the slave cylinder and unscrew the nut. Carefully remove the tube from the cylinder and seal the end to prevent dirt from entering.
Unscrew the cylinder mounting bolts and carefully remove from the clutch release fork.
Repair
Clean the outside of the cylinder.
Remove the boot from the cylinder (and snap ring, where applicable) and remove the piston and spring assembly, noting the correct orientation of the spring.
If necessary, loosen and remove the bolt and washers securing the union nut adapter to the cylinder and remove the restrictor valve and spring from the cylinder. New sealing washers will be required during reassembly.
Inspect the surfaces of the piston and cylinder. If they are scratched or corroded, replace the slave cylinder assembly.
If the cylinder is in good condition, purchase a piston replacement repair kit that will contain all the necessary components.
Make sure all components are clean and dry, lubricate the piston assembly with fresh brake fluid.
Set the spring to smaller (conical) end toward the piston, then carefully insert the assembly into the cylinder. Push the piston into working position with a twisting motion, being careful not to pinch the sealing lips.
Press the piston and install the boot.
Where they were removed, install a spring and a restrictive valve in the working cylinder. Place a new sealing washer on each side of the union nut, then install the bolt and torque it down.
Installation
Apply a small amount of grease to the pusher fork and connect the working cylinder to the pusher. Install the cylinder mounting bolts and tighten them securely. If the pusher has been removed, before installing the cylinder, connect it to the release lever by installing the pusher fork pin and securing it with a bracket.
Connect the hydraulic tube to the cylinder and tighten the union nut.
Bleed the hydraulic system.
Check the position and travel of the clutch pedal.