Clutch and its drive: 1 - clutch release fork; 2 - clutch release bearing; 3 – a bolt of fastening of a casing of coupling; 4 - clutch cover; 5 - driven clutch disc; 6 - clutch drive pipeline; 7 - clutch pedal bracket; 8 – an axis of a pedal of coupling; 9 - clutch pedal; 10 - the main cylinder of the clutch drive; 11 - clutch slave cylinder; 12 – fitting for bleeding the working cylinder of the clutch drive
Removal of air from the hydraulic clutch
Bleeding the clutch hydraulic drive should be carried out each time the connecting pipe, hose and / or master cylinder is removed, and also in the case when the clutch pedal becomes «soft».
Attention! Use only the specified brand of fluid. Do not mix liquids of different brands. Use DOT-3 or DOT-4 fluid.
Clutch bleed valve location
Loosen the bleed screw on the slave cylinder.
Slowly depress the clutch pedal fully until fluid stops flowing out.
While holding the pedal down, tighten the bleed screw.
Top up to the normal level in the reservoir with the required brand of fluid.
Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder: 1 - the body of the main cylinder of the clutch drive; 2 – a nut of fastening of the main cylinder of a drive of coupling; 3 - piston; 4 - retaining ring; 5 – pusher with damper; 6 - pusher axis
Withdrawal
Drain the working fluid through the bleed valve.
Nut of fastening of a main cylinder of a drive of coupling
Loosen the master cylinder nut.
Disconnect the hydraulic clutch pipes and hoses.
Clip of fastening of the pipeline to a transmission
Remove the clamp securing the pipeline to the gearbox.
Check the hose and piping for corrosion, pitting or burrs.
Installation
Connect the pipeline to the working cylinder.
Flexible Clutch Hose
Connect the flexible hose and secure it with a clamp.
Install the master cylinder.
Attach pushrod to clutch pedal.
Bleed the hydraulic clutch.
Disassembly
Remove the piston retaining ring.
Remove the pusher assembly with the piston, while being careful not to damage the body and piston of the cylinder.
Checking the technical condition
Check the cylinder bore for corrosion, pitting and scuffing.
Check the cylinder sleeve for wear or misalignment.
Check the piston for corrosion, pitting or scoring.
Check the cleanliness of the pipeline.
Check the inside diameter of the cylinder with a bore gauge and the outside diameter of the piston with a micrometer.
If the clearance between the piston and the cylinder exceeds the maximum allowable size (0.15 mm), replace the master cylinder or piston.
Assembly
Apply DOT-3 or DOT-4 fluid to the cylinder bore and piston outer surface.
Insert the piston into the cylinder.
Install the piston retaining ring.
Install pusher.
Connect the hose to the cylinder body.
Clutch pedal
Clutch pedal and its mounting bracket: 1 – the switch of blocking of ignition; 2 - pedal bracket; 3 – a bolt of fastening of an arm of a pedal; 4 - the axis of the pedal; 5 – the internal plug of a pedal; 6 - return spring; 7 - the outer sleeve of the pedal; 8 – the internal plug of a pedal; 9 - spring washer; 10 – a nut of an axis of a pedal; 11 - pedal stop; 12 - clutch pedal
Withdrawal
Clutch pusher pin
Remove the cotter pin and washer.
Clutch pedal nuts
Remove the pedal mounting bolts.
Checking the technical condition
Check the following:
- axle and pedal bushing for wear;
- clutch pedal for bending and warping;
- return spring for damage or weakening;
- pedal pad for damage or wear;
Measuring the height of the clutch pedal above the floor
- pedal height above the floor A (from the outer surface of the pedal platform to the floor) (figure 3.10). It should be 160.7 mm.
If the pedal height above the floor is not correct, adjust it as follows.
Attention! When adjusting the pedal height, make sure that the pushrod does not move towards the master cylinder.
1. Adjust the pedal height with the bolt, then tighten the locknut.
Attention! After adjustment, tighten the bolt until it touches the pedal stop, then tighten the locknut.
Height above floor and clutch pedal travel
2. Rotate the pusher to adjust its length to the new pedal height, then secure the pusher with a nut.
Clutch pedal free play
After completing the adjustment, check that the free play of the clutch pedal (measured from the surface of the pedal pad) is in the range of 6–13 mm.
If the free play of the clutch pedal does not correspond to the norm, it means that air has entered the hydraulic drive or the master cylinder is faulty. Bleed the hydraulic drive and check the master cylinder or clutch.
Scheme for checking the integrity of the electrical circuit between the contacts of the switch
Checking the ignition switch. Check the integrity of the electrical circuit between the contacts of the switch.
Installation
Application points for universal grease
Apply multipurpose grease at the points indicated by the arrows.
Tighten the nuts.
Install the clutch pedal pin.
Clutch cover and driven disc
Clutch cover and driven disc: 1 - clutch release fork; 2 - clutch release bearing; 3 – a bolt of fastening of a casing of coupling; 4 - clutch cover; 5 – a conducted disk of coupling
Withdrawal
Drain the clutch fluid and oil from the gearbox housing.
Remove the gearbox (see subsection «Transmission»).
Insert Drift 09411-25000 into the driven disc hub hole to prevent it from falling off.
Loosen the bolts securing the clutch cover to the flywheel in a criss-cross pattern.
Loosening the bolts securing the clutch cover to the flywheel
Unscrew the bolts alternately, each time by one or two turns, to prevent warping of the casing flange.
Attention! Do not use solvents to clean the driven disc and clutch release bearing.
Checking the technical condition
Clutch cover. Check the ends of the diaphragm spring petals for wear and height differences.
Check pressure plate surface for wear, cracks and discoloration.
Check for loose rivets and replace clutch cover if necessary.
Slave disk. Check friction linings for loose rivets, uneven fit, tack damage, oil or grease build-up. If necessary, replace the damaged driven disk.
Checking the thickness of the driven disk in the free (unloaded) able
Check the thickness of the driven disk in the free state.
Check disc springs for play and damage, replace defective disc if necessary.
Clear splines of a primary shaft of a transmission and establish a conducted disk.
If it is difficult to move the disc along the splines of the shaft or if there is excessive clearance, replace the driven disc and / or the input shaft of the gearbox.
Attention! The clutch release bearing is lubricated. Do not use solvents to clean the bearing.
Clutch release bearing. Check the clutch release bearing for binding, damage or excessive noise. Check the contact points of the diaphragm spring with the bearing race for wear.
Replace the bearing in case of severe wear of the contact points with the clutch release fork.
Clutch release fork. Replace the clutch release fork if it is heavily worn where it contacts the clutch release bearing.
Installation
Apply multipurpose grease to the release fork where it contacts the release bearing and slave cylinder.
Place of application of universal grease on the clutch release fork
Apply lubricant.
Apply multipurpose grease to the clutch release bearing groove.
Recommended lubricant is CASMOLY L9508.
Apply CASMOLY L9508 multipurpose grease to the release fork where it contacts the release lever axle.
Thoroughly clean the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate with fine-grained sandpaper and check that there are no traces of oil or grease on them.
Apply a small amount of CASMOLY L9508 Multipurpose Grease to the splines of the driven disc hub and transmission input shaft.
Clutch Slave Cylinder Bolts
Attention! When installing the clutch, do not apply too much grease to the indicated places, as this can lead to slipping and jerking during clutch operation.
Using drift 09411-25000, install the driven plate on the flywheel with the factory marked side towards the pressure plate.
Install the clutch cover on the flywheel and screw in the six mounting bolts.
Tighten the bolts crosswise to 15–22 Nm. Tighten the bolts alternately, one or two turns each time, to prevent warping of the clutch housing flange.
Remove the mandrel to center the driven disk.
Install the gearbox (see subsection «Transmission»).
Adjust the clutch pedal free play.
Attention! Apply only the required amount of lubricant. Excess lubrication can cause slipping and jerking during clutch operation.
Clutch slave cylinder
Withdrawal
Disconnect the connecting pipeline from the working cylinder.
Removing the piston from the cylinder
Turn away a bolt of fastening of the working cylinder.
Checking the technical condition
Check the slave cylinder for signs of fluid leakage.
Check the slave cylinder boot for damage.
Disassembly
Disconnect the connecting hose from the cylinder, remove the valve plate, spring, pusher and cover.
Carefully remove the dirt around the bore of the working cylinder under the piston.
Remove the piston from the cylinder by blowing compressed air into the cylinder.
Attention! Pre-cover the working cylinder with a rag, as the piston can fly out at high speed and cause injury.
Increase the air pressure gradually to prevent brake fluid from escaping and getting into your eyes or on your skin.
Checking the technical condition
Check the slave cylinder mirror for corrosion or damage.
Using a bore gauge, check the bore of the cylinder in three places (at the bottom, middle and top). If the clearance between the piston and the cylinder exceeds the limit, replace the working cylinder.
The maximum allowable clearance between the piston and the cylinder is 0.15 mm.
Assembly
Apply the correct brand of brake fluid to the inner surface of the working cylinder and the outer surface of the piston and piston collar, and install the piston in the cylinder.
Fluid used: DOT-3 or DOT-4 brake fluid.
Installation
Install the valve plate, tappet and boot.
Lubricate the pushrod axle with CASMOLY L9508.
Install the clutch slave cylinder and connect the pipeline to it.
Clutch Slave Cylinder Bolts
Screw in bolts of fastening of the working cylinder.
Useful information and tips
Causes of clutch slipping or incomplete disengagement when pressing the pedal
Clutch slip is manifested in the fact that with a completely serviceable engine, the car does not overcome climbs well, accelerates slowly. This can be caused by oiling or severe wear of the discs, a decrease in the elasticity of the springs, or a lack of free play in the clutch pedal.
Incomplete disengagement of the clutch causes difficulty and noise when shifting gears and can lead to premature failure of the synchronizers and accelerated wear of the transmission teeth. This malfunction most often occurs when the discs are dirty, warped or deformed, the position of the release levers is incorrectly adjusted, or the clutch pedal is too free to play.
It should be borne in mind that the noise in the gearbox is not always the result of incomplete disengagement of the clutch. Noise can be caused by worn or misaligned bearings, worn or misaligned bevel gears. A strong knock in the indicated places indicates the presence of a serious malfunction that requires the immediate stop of the car and the repair of the unit.
Causes of difficult gear shifting or their spontaneous shutdown
Difficult gear shifting or spontaneous disengagement is the result of wear on the locks and latches or the gear shift drive. There is no need for a major overhaul here.
Such malfunctions can be prevented in the following ways: periodically carefully check the reliability of fastening of all units and parts of the power transmission, monitor the oil level in the gearbox and change it in a timely manner.